As I calmly climb the stairs, my hand follows the gentle curl of the railing. I walk towards the light, closely accompanied by the winding ironwork. Everywhere are exuberant curling lines like vines and flowers, geometric motifs, intricate tile patterns, and ornate skylights. Upstairs, I bathe in the colored light, and admire the stained-glass ceiling with its pattern of intricate staggered chevrons organically curving to the sides.
The Arte Nova shawl is inspired by the Art Nouveau buildings of Brussels. Stylishly asymmetric and curling to one side, the shawl is a display of organic and geometric lace patterns reminiscent of Art Nouveau motifs: leaves and buds, curvy chevrons, and delicate and airy meshes. Be the artist and steal the show wrapping yourself in the Arte Nova shawl!
Arte Nova means Art Nouveau in Portuguese.
For best effect, use a round yarn with good stitch definition. Yarn weights ranging from Lace to DK would be suitable. As for colorways, I would recommend solid, semi-solid, speckled, or gradient (single skein or gradient set) yarns.
Do you like the Arte Nova shawl? You might like this pattern too: The Dúha shawl. For endless fun with stylish lace stitch patterns combined with an addictive asymmetric curling shape! Check it out!
Or check out the Curl bundle on Ravelry, including The Arte Nova, Dúha, Iradium, and Auro shawls.
Bilum Hand Dyed Yarns Loli (Light Fingering, 100% Merino, 500 meters / 547 yards per 100 grams); 1 cake; sample uses 98 grams in color 34 Lilla.
2.75 mm (US size 2) circular needles or size to obtain gauge with two cable lengths as follows: (1) 80 cm / 32 inches; (2) 120 cm / 47 inches. The long circular needle is used to accommodate the large number of stitches.
29 stitches and 40 rows = 10 cm / 4 inches in Stockinette Stitch, unblocked.
24 stitches and 27 rows = 10 cm / 4 inches in Pattern B – Horta Staircase, blocked.
26 stitches and 30 rows = 10 cm / 4 inches in Pattern C – Stained Glass, blocked.
16 stitches and 36 rows = 10 cm / 4 inches in Pattern D – Art Nouveau Edging, blocked.
Note: obtaining the gauge given is not crucial but will affect the finished size and the yardage needed.
Stitch markers (optional): 1 in color A (edge marker), 21 removable markers in color B (repeat markers). Tapestry needle. Blocking pins. Flexible blocking wires (optional).
One; easily customizable.
Height (h): 95 cm / 37.5 inches, length (l): 114 cm / 45 inches, wingspan (w): 117 cm / 46 inches.
Basic stitches, increases, single and multiple decreases (knits and purls). Main body patterns with relatively easy to memorize stitch pattern and easy patterning on both sides. Edging requiring some attention and with lace patterning on both sides. Elastic BO.
Video tutorials are provided for the stitches and techniques used.
This pattern is worked flat in two Sections plus an Edging to form a curling asymmetrical shawl. Suggestions are given to customize the pattern.
Charts and written instructions are provided as well as clear video tutorials for the used stitches and techniques.
For questions about this pattern, please PM me on Ravelry or send me an email. Contact details are provided.
Thank you note
I’d like to send a big thank you to my truly awesome test knitters on Ravelry: kallyknits, Myllim. Thanks a lot for your time and dedication, for helping me make this pattern even better and for showing how the pattern would look like with different yarns!
Do you need ideas for gradient yarns? Here you go!
Here are some suggestions for a few specific yarns in varying yarn weights (and in no particular order). Choose a round yarn without halo or fluff and good stitch definition. Please plan your substitution and check the put up and fiber content before buying (cotton and alpaca are heavier than wool for example):
Indie dyers who make a lot of gradient yarns:
- And more here: https://www.ravelry.com/yarns/search#ya=gradient%2Bhand-dyed&sort=best&view=thumblist
- And even more on Etsy: https://www.etsy.com/search?q=gradient%20yarn
More gradient yarns on Ravelry, per weight:
- Worsted: https://www.ravelry.com/yarns/search#ya=gradient&weight=worsted&sort=best&view=thumblist
- DK: https://www.ravelry.com/yarns/search#weight=dk&ya=gradient&sort=best&view=thumblist
- Sport: https://www.ravelry.com/yarns/search#ya=gradient&weight=sport&sort=best&view=thumblist
- Fingering: https://www.ravelry.com/yarns/search#ya=gradient&weight=fingering&sort=best&view=thumblist
- Lace: https://www.ravelry.com/yarns/search#ya=gradient&weight=lace&sort=best&view=thumblist
If you’d like to use a gradient yarn, I’d suggest to use the following options to work the pattern:
- 1 strand from a large skein of yarn with one continuous gradient
- 1 strand from two 100g skeins with one continuous gradient and use them “head to toe” (for example: light to dark then dark to light, forming a double gradient)
- 2 strands held together from two balls of light-weight yarns, starting at exactly the same color for both
- one gradient yarn completed at the beginning and end with the matching colors to transition in and out of the gradient
- a set of gradient skeins from your favorite local brand or dyer. If you are using a light-weight and two strands, you can even fade them at the color transitions (for example: two strands in color A, then one strand in color A and one strand in color B, then two strands in color B, etc.)
- you could even try to dye your own gradient yarns
- or you could dye the finished project to have full control of the color transitions (please practice dyeing before you dye your project!)
- of course, you can use a lighter-weight yarn, like lace held single to knit the pattern. In that case, check your gauge to maintain good measurements (and most probably add some pattern repeats). The yardage will really depend on whether you want to maintain the measurements.
- and you can use a heavier-weight yarn, like DK or Worsted and make the pattern larger. In that case, check your gauge to maintain good measurements. You might even want to add some pattern repeats to make the pattern much larger.
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