Éolia scarf / stole


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From fiery volcano eruptions to tranquil shores, each of the Aeolian Islands sings its own song. Let the aromatic scents and warmth of the sun awaken your senses. Wander through narrow streets of whitewashed buildings adorned with exuberant bougainvilleas. With hues of magenta, purple, and amber, these blooms splash color across the landscape, turning streets into galleries and gardens into masterpieces.

The Éolia scarf / stole is an ode to the Aeolian Islands. Éolia playfully combines six lace stitch patterns, evoking villages, curvy shores, volcanoes, and bougainvilleas. The pattern sequences create transient complementary motifs at the transitions. Embark on a volcanic and flowery journey, and let beauty inspire you to paint your own canvas of joy and wonder.

The Éolia scarf / stole’s name derives from “Îles Éoliennes”, which is French for Aeolian Islands.

For best effect, use a smooth, round yarn with good stitch definition. Yarn weights ranging from Fingering to Worsted would be suitable. As for colorways, I would recommend solid, semi-solid, or gradient (single skein or gradient set) yarns.

Do you like the Éolia scarf / stole? You might like those patterns too: The Zalesić stole / shawl, and the Glasmålning cowl. For endless fun with beautiful gradients and lace! Check them out!

Katia Harmonia (Sport, 100% Cotton, 540 meters / 590 yards per 150 grams); [1,2] cake(s); sample (small size) uses 139 grams in color 203 Rose-Orange-Red-Yellow. The stole (large size) uses 258 grams.

2.75 mm (US size 2) 60 cm / 24 inches circular needle or size to obtain gauge.

27 stitches and 39 rows = 10 cm / 4 inches in Stockinette stitch, unblocked.
23.5 stitches and 31.5 rows = 10 cm / 4 inches in Stitch Pattern A – Lipari & Vulcano, blocked.
23.5 stitches and 29 rows = 10 cm / 4 inches in Stitch Pattern B – Salina, blocked.
23.5 stitches and 31 rows = 10 cm / 4 inches in Stitch Pattern C – Alicudi, blocked.
23.5 stitches and 31 rows = 10 cm / 4 inches in Stitch Pattern D – Filicudi, blocked.
23.5 stitches and 31 rows = 10 cm / 4 inches in Stitch Pattern E – Stromboli, blocked.
23.5 stitches and 29 rows = 10 cm / 4 inches in Stitch Pattern F – Panarea, blocked.
Note: obtaining the gauge given is not crucial but will affect the finished size and the yardage needed.

Stitch markers (optional): 2 in color A (edge marker), [5,10] in color B (repeat marker). Tapestry needle. Blocking pins. Blocking wires (optional).

Small (scarf), large (stole); easily customizable.

Final measurements
Small size (scarf): Width (w): 24 cm / 9.5 inches, length (l): 192 cm / 75.5 inches. See schematic.
Large size (stole): Width (w): 45.5 cm / 18 inches, length (l): 192 cm / 75.5 inches. See schematic.

Skill level
Basic stitches, increases, single and multiple decreases (knits and purls). Four stitch patterns are relatively easy to memorize, and with patterning on odd rows only. Two stitch patterns require some attention, and with lace patterning on RS and WS rows. Elastic BO.
Video tutorials are provided for the stitches and techniques used.

Pattern notes
This pattern is worked flat starting from the short side. The stitch count remains constant throughout the whole pattern. Suggestions are given to customize the pattern.
Charts and written instructions are provided, as well as clear video tutorials for the stitches and techniques used.

Pattern support
For questions about this pattern, please PM me on Ravelry or send me an email. Contact details are provided.

Thank you note
I’d like to send a big thank you to my truly awesome test knitters on Ravelry: kallyknits, knitinmarmot. Thank you so much for your time and dedication, for helping me make this pattern even better and for showing how the pattern would look like with different yarns!

Yarn ideas
Do you need ideas for gradient yarns? Here you go!
Here are some suggestions for a few specific yarns in varying yarn weights (and in no particular order). Choose a round yarn without halo or fluff and good stitch definition. Please plan your substitution and check the put up and fiber content before buying (cotton and alpaca are heavier than wool, for example):

  • https://www.ravelry.com/yarns/library/knit-picks-stroll-gradient
  • https://www.ravelry.com/yarns/library/lang-yarns-ayumi
  • https://www.ravelry.com/yarns/library/lang-yarns-puno
  • https://www.ravelry.com/yarns/library/hikoo-by-skacel-concentric-cotton
  • https://www.ravelry.com/yarns/library/wendys-wonders-merino-nylon-sportweight-75-25
  • https://www.ravelry.com/yarns/library/schoppel-wolle-zauberball-cotton
  • https://www.ravelry.com/yarns/library/schoppel-wolle-zauberball100
  • https://www.ravelry.com/yarns/library/scheepjes-whirl
  • https://www.ravelry.com/yarns/library/scheepjes-woolly-whirl
  • https://www.ravelry.com/yarns/library/lafeefil-merino-nylon-light-fingering-gradient
  • https://www.ravelry.com/yarns/library/squirrels-yarns-noisette-fing-500
  • https://www.ravelry.com/yarns/library/squirrels-yarns-tourbillon-noisette-sport

Indie dyers who make a lot of gradient yarns:

  • https://www.ravelry.com/yarns/brands/fierce-fibers
  • https://www.ravelry.com/yarns/brands/knitwhits-freia-handpaints
  • https://www.ravelry.com/yarns/brands/bilum-hand-dyed-yarns
  • And more here: https://www.ravelry.com/yarns/search#ya=gradient%2Bhand-dyed&sort=best&view=thumblist
  • And even more on Etsy: https://www.etsy.com/search?q=gradient%20yarn

More gradient yarns on Ravelry, per weight:

  • Worsted: https://www.ravelry.com/yarns/search#ya=gradient&weight=worsted&sort=best&view=thumblist
  • DK: https://www.ravelry.com/yarns/search#weight=dk&ya=gradient&sort=best&view=thumblist
  • Sport: https://www.ravelry.com/yarns/search#ya=gradient&weight=sport&sort=best&view=thumblist
  • Fingering: https://www.ravelry.com/yarns/search#ya=gradient&weight=fingering&sort=best&view=thumblist
  • Lace: https://www.ravelry.com/yarns/search#ya=gradient&weight=lace&sort=best&view=thumblist

If you’d like to use a gradient yarn, I’d suggest using the following options to work the pattern:

  • 1 strand from a large skein of yarn with one continuous gradient
  • 1 strand from two 100g skeins with one continuous gradient and use them “head to toe” (for example: light to dark then dark to light, forming a double gradient)
  • 2 strands held together from two balls of light-weight yarns, starting at exactly the same color for both
  • one gradient yarn completed at the beginning and end with the matching colors to transition in and out of the gradient
  • a set of gradient skeins from your favorite local brand or dyer. If you are using a light-weight and two strands, you can even fade them at the color transitions (for example: two strands in color A, then one strand in color A and one strand in color B, then two strands in color B, etc.)
  • you could even try to dye your own gradient yarns
  • or you could dye the finished project to have full control of the color transitions (please practice dyeing before you dye your project!)
  • of course, you can use a lighter-weight yarn, like lace held single to knit the pattern. In that case, check your gauge to maintain good measurements (and most probably add some pattern repeats). The yardage will really depend on whether you want to maintain the measurements.
  • and you can use a heavier-weight yarn, like DK or Worsted and make the pattern larger. In that case, check your gauge to maintain good measurements. You might even want to add some pattern repeats to make the pattern much larger.

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